Wednesday, 4 September 2019

Louis Stanislas Xavier de Bourbon, Comte de Provence

Born on 17 November 1755, Louis Stanislas Xavier was fourth in line to the throne of France. As a child, he was educated alongside his brother - the future Louis XVI - and showed himself to be a remarkably intelligent boy. By the age of 12, he had lost both his parents and suddenly became second in line to the throne. Just three years later, Louis Stanislas had his own personal household established - and quite a considerable one at that. At the same time he was granted several titles including that of Comte de Provence which he became known as at Versailles.

Considering that he was now a fully educated young man, the question of his marriage naturally arose. A Savoyard princess was found for him and on 14 May 1771 he married Marie Josèphine. The union was not a particularly joyous one. Marie Josèphine was considered to be both ugly and boring while Louis Stanislas might have been impotent and was already obese. As a result, the marriage was not consummated for a long while. In an attempt to save face - and get under the skin of his elder brother - he would often taunt Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette with his prowess in the bedchamber. It was considered quite a joke at Versailles since it was an open secret that Louis Stanislas' own marriage was unconsummated. Louis Stanislas would never have children by Marie Josèphine although she did have at least two confirmed pregnancies.



Louis Stanislas Xavier

Louis Stanislas was an ambitious man who harboured a certain jealousy that his brother had ascended the throne rather than himself. When Louis XVI became king, the Comte de Provence - now Monsieur - was not given more political influence. Perhaps the frustrations he faced at court resulted in his trips across France. Either way, he spent considerably longer time travelling through his family's dominions than his brothers and sisters.  

Whenever he was at court, Louis Stanislas experienced a turbulent relationship with the king and queen. He had little in common with his brother and they often quarrelled; likewise, him and Marie Antoinette did not see eye to eye. Nevertheless, as long as the king and queen had no children he stood to inherit the throne. These hopes were dashed in 1781 when a Dauphin was born and further diminished when another was born in 1785.

Cut off from his passion for politics, Louis Stanislas threw himself into his love of books. He amassed a collection of more than 11.000 books. Meanwhile, his relationship with is wife suffered a final blow when he fell in love with a lady-in-waiting of hers by the name of Anne Nompar de Caumont, Comtesse de Balbi. As a true prince of France, he had expensive tastes and quickly amassed a huge debt of 10.000.000 livres - paid off by his brother.

When the revolution broke out, Louis Stanislas advocated a strong resistance to the demands of the National Assembly. While his younger brother, the Comte d'Artois, emigrated with his wife, Louis Stanislas remained at Versailles and advised his brother not to abandon Versailles. He was not imprisoned alongside the rest of the royal family but lived at the Palais de Luxembourg with his wife. They lived there until 1791, when the attempted flight to Varennes decidedly soured life for royalty in Paris and the Comte and Comtesse de Provence escaped to the Netherlands.

He would later proclaim himself Louis XVIII but the period following 1793 is outside the scope of this blog. Louis Stanislas died in Paris on 16 September 1824.

The Jewels of Marie Leszczynska

The Polish-born Marie Leszczynska died in 1768; she had been the longest serving queen-consort of France with 43 years in the role. Like every other royal lady, she had her own personal collection of precious pieces of jewellery - these were hers and therefore were not counted amongst the Crown Jewels of France. Consequently, they give us an insight into her personal tastes and relationships. She was also entitled to bestow them on whomever she wished through her last will and testament whereas the Crown Jewels passed to the next queen.

Aigrettes / Hair Adornments

1 aigrette of diamonds (described as being in "sultane" style, so perhaps inspired by Ottoman jewellery?) 

Bracelets

1 pearl bracelet with a portrait of the king framed by diamonds mounted on five rows of 66 genuine pearls and some artificial

1 bracelet of pearls and a diamond

2 gold bracelets

1 gold bracelet containing the hair of the queen of Poland (her mother)

1 gold bracelet with a portrait of the queen of Poland 

1 gold bracelet with a portrait of the king of Poland 

1 bracelet with the monogram and hair of the king of Poland 

1 bracelet with the hair of Louis Ferdinand, her late son

2 gold bracelets containing the portraits of her eldest daughter, Louise Élisabeth, and her son-in-law, Philip, Duke of Parma

Earrings

1 pair of girandole earrings in the following pattern: two brilliants formed a loop with a square diamond in the middle - six brilliants made up pendants completing the girandole

1 pair of earrings consisting of a total of 66 brilliants including four larger brilliants

Necklaces

1 necklace in choker-style with a bow of pink diamonds at the centre and twelve prominent diamonds surrounding them. The remainder of the necklace was made up of smaller diamonds.

1 necklace with a wooden cross, eight smaller crosses and rings or hearts of gold (apparently Marie was particularly fond of this necklace as she was said to be "always" wearing it)


Parure / Sets

1 parure intended to be worn for mourning. It was made from black jet and consisted of a necklace, earrings, girandoles and individual pieces to be attached to clothing.

Pendants

1 diamond-covered cross

1 crystal cross containing wood from the alleged "True Cross" surrounded by 44 diamonds and mounted on a base of 83 diamonds

1 pendant of a large oval-shaped diamond

Rings

1 ring with a large, pink diamond

1 ring with a likeness of the king of Poland (her father)

1 ring with a portrait of the king of Poland and three diamonds

1 golden ring with braided locks of hair 

1 ring which used to belong to her eldest son, Louis Ferdinand

1 ring depicting Saint Népomucene 

2 silver rings

1 diamond ring

1 ring with a large diamond

Miscellaneous 

1 Saint Népomucene of six principal diamonds, eighteen brilliants, seven smaller diamonds and four rubies

1 ribbon (possibly to be worn as a necklace) with a total of 162 pink precious stones and 60 brilliants

A number of pearls (probably to be attached to clothing)



As can be seen, Marie Leszczynska seems to have preferred rings and bracelets but were less inclined towards necklaces.

Tuesday, 3 September 2019

The Crown Jewels of 1774

The following pieces of jewellery were added by 1774 but is not a complete list of the entire royal collection; these pieces were added to those already in the treasury which are accounted for under the inventories of 1666 and 1691. Depending on when the individual pieces were purchased they would have been available to the Marie Leszczynska and later to Marie Antoinette.

Necklaces

1 necklace of 45 diamonds

1 pearl necklace (possibly of pearls with a pink hue)

Parures / Sets

1 set of 120 diamond buttons (meant to be attached to clothing)

1 set consisting of a bejewelled belt and epaulettes; the stones used are colourful, so not "just" white diamonds. This particular set is specifically said to have been made for Louis XV.

1 diamond set consisting of: 1 large diamond, 2 diamond necklaces, 3 pieces made up of small diamonds (unspecified nature), 2 diamond bracelets, 1 diamond pendant and 1 cross with 5 diamonds.

1 diamond and ruby set consisting of a necklace, earrings, pendants and several other pieces


Earrings

1 pair of earrings with two pearls each

1 pair of girandole earrings of diamonds and pearls


Billedresultat for marie leszczynska alexis simon belle
Marie Leszczynska wearing several diamonds
attached to her stomacher as well as a double-
row of pearls in her hair

Buttons

120 diamond buttons (meant for vests)

128 buttons of diamonds and pearls


Epaulettes

1 pair of epaulettes adorned with pink diamonds

1 epaulette of diamonds and rubies 


Aigrettes / Hat Adornments

1 hat adornment of 7 diamonds

1 hat adornment of eleven diamonds and seven pearls

1 aigrette of nine pear-shaped diamonds



Brooches

7 large diamond brooches

14 smaller diamond brooches


Miscellaneous 

19 pieces of jewellery intended to be attached to or around the buttonhole - almost like a brooch; each consisting of three diamonds

1 row of twenty-one pearls

1 row of twenty-five pearls with a pendant of one large, round pearl

9 pear-shaped diamonds (to be attached to a stomacher or a justaucorps)

1 pendant consisting of a yellow diamond

1 Golden Fleece of gold and coloured gemstones

1 Golden Fleece of four large diamonds, eight medium-sized diamonds and several brillants

1 Saint-Esprit cross of eighteen diamonds and several small diamonds and rose-coloured gems

1 Saint-Esprit cross with sky-blue sash


Billedresultat for louis xv
Louis XV is wearing a Saint-Esprit cross
with a blue sash - possibly the one mentioned
in the inventory

The inventory glosses rather easily over "several precious stones and pieces of jewellery - of diverse colours - acquired during the reign of Louis XV" but does not specify exactly what jewellery it is. It does mention, however, girandole earrings and bracelets as being amongst the pieces.

The Crown Jewels

The collection of French Crown Jewels was initiated by Francis I in the 16th century and only grew over the centuries. Sadly, during the revolution, the majority of the Crown Jewels were sold off and thus were scattered throughout the world. Even those pieces of jewellery that was successfully smuggled out were rarely in the same condition as prior to the revolution; many had been broken up - probably in order to enable the smuggling - and later resembled in a different design.

Still, the Crown Jewels of France were amongst the most magnificent in the world during the years of Versailles. Below, individual gemstones as well as entire inventories gives an insight into the glittering treasury of the French royal family. 

The Crown Jewels


Inventory of 1666


(new additions to the collection)

Inventory of 1791
(individual stones)

The Individual Gemstones



"The Sancy"



The Individual Pieces (1660-1715)




The Individual Pieces (1716-1774)



The Individual Pieces (1775-1789)






The Personal Collections


Monday, 2 September 2019

The House of Caumont

Originating from Gascony, the House of Caumont had split into two different branches by the reign of Louis XIV. One was headed by the Duc de La Force and the other Duc de Lauzun. It is estimated that the family had been among the nobility for several centuries prior to the Grand Siècle. However, there was one remarkable thing about the branch of Caumont La Force: they were Protestants.

The Ducs de La Force

1. Jacques Nompar de Caumont and (I) Charlotte de Gontaut-Biron, (II) Anne de Mornay, (III) Isabelle de Clermont-Gallerande

Being Protestant, Jacques became a target during the St. Bartholomew's Days Massacre but managed to survive. Initially, he had joined forces with Henri de Rohan against Louis XIII but later reconciled with him and served the king on the battlefield, earning himself the title of Marèchal de France. After successfully capturing several Italian towns and driving the Spaniards back, he was elevated to the title of Duc de La Force.

Charlotte was the daughter of the Baron de Biron.

They had ten children:
  • Armand, Duc de La Force
  • Henri, Duc de La Force
  • Jacques - killed in battle
  • Charles, Seigneur de Maduran
  • Pierre, Baron d'Aymet
  • Jean, Seigneur de Montpouillan
  • Jean-Jacob, Marquis de Tonneins
  • François, Marquis de Castelmoron
  • Jacqueline 
  • Isabelle

Anne de Mornay had been married once before to the Seigneur de La Tabarière with whom she had had seven children.

Isabelle de Clermont-Gallerande was another widow; she had been married to the Dutch ambassador 

Jacques Nompar de Caumont maréchal de La Force.jpg
Jacques


2. Armand Nompar de Caumont and (I) Jeanne de Rochefaton, (II) Louise de Belzunce

Like his father, Armand became a Marèchal de France - as it happened, he would often accompany his father on the battlefield. He was renowned for his bravery during his military campaigns of Italy and Spain; for instance, he had two horses killed from under him during the siege of Hondarribia in 1638. At court, he served as Grand Maître of the King's Wardrobe for five years.


Jeanne de Rochefaton was Dame de Saveilles in her own right. She died in 1667.

The couple had two children:
  • Charlotte, Marèchale de Turenne
  • Jacques, Marquis de Masgezir

Louise de Belzunce married Armand the same year that Jeanne died. She was the daughter of the Vicomte de Macaye. At the time of her marriage, Louise was 17 years old while Armand was 87! She had no children by Armand and died from small-pox after 13 years of marriage. 

Billedresultat for Jeanne de Rochefaton
Armand
Billedresultat for Jeanne de Rochefaton
Louise de Belzunce



3. Henri Nompar de Caumont and Marguerite d'Escodeca

Henri was the second son of Jacques Nompar de Caumont and therefore the brother of the former Duc de La Force. He also followed his father into battle and killed the Duc de Mayenne in battle while fighting the troops of Louis XIII. Once the family had reconciled with the king, he became a valued asset in the king's army, where he obtained the rank of Marèchal de camp.

Marguerite was Dame de Boësse and the daughter of the Baron de Boësse. The couple had nine children:

  • Jacques - killed in battle
  • Henri - died young
  • Pierre, Marquis de Cugnac
  • Armand, Marquis de Montpouillan
  • Charlotte, Comtesse de Lauzun
  • Diane, Marquise de Montbrun
  • Jeanne, Marquise de Navailles
  • Jacqueline, Comtesse de Panjas
  • Henriette, Demoiselle de Castelnau

4. Jacques Nompar II de Caumont and (I) Marie de Saint-Simon, (II) Suzanne de Beringhen

Jacques was the grandson of the former Duc de La Force - his father and namesake, Jacques, had been killed in battle. Marie de Saint-Simon was the daughter of the Marquis de Courtomer. They had three children:

  • Louise Victoire, Comtesse de Roure
  • Jeanne
  • Marguerite
Marie died in 1670 and Jacques remarried three years later to Suzanne de Beringhen. They had seven children:

  • Henri-Jacques, Duc de La Force
  • François
  • Armand
  • Charlotte
  • Suzanne
  • Jeanne, Comtesse de Courtomer
  • Magne

5. Henri-Jacques Nompar de Caumont and Anne Marie Beuzelen de Bosmelet 

Henri-Jacques did not manage to become a Marèchal de France but was a colonel of a regiment which bore his own surname. He became a member of the Académie Française and served as a financial councillor to the Regency council under Philippe d'Orléans. His interests included science had it was he who (amongst others) founded the Académie Nationale des Sciences

Anne was the daughter of the Seigneur de Bosmelet. She had four children by Henri-Jacques but none of them survived infancy and only one of their names is known: Marie Jeanne Antonine who lived and died in 1699.

Billedresultat for duchesse de la force
Anne Marie


6. Armand Nompar II de Caumont and Anne-Elisabeth Gruel de Boismont

Armand was the younger brother of Henri-Jacques and assumed the title in 1727. Anne-Elisabeth was a widow when she married Armand in 1713. They had four children:

  • Jacques III, Duc de La Force
  • Olympe
  • Antonin
  • Armand
Armand must have abdicated his title because his son, Jacques, became Duc de La Force despite dying before his father. 

7. Jacques Nompar III de Caumont and Marie Louise de Noailles

Jacques was intended to create the next generation but he died at the age of just 41 years old and his marriage to Marie Louise had not produced any offspring. 

8. Bertrand Nompar de Caumont and Adélaïde Luce de Galard de Brassac de Béarn

This couple happened to be both descending from the House of Caumont. Bertrand appears to have been a relative to the Duc de La Force while Adélaïde was a granddaughter of Armand II. Bertrand served as a guardsman to Louis XV and a Gentleman of the Bedchamber. 

The couple had 12 (!) children:
  • Anne, Marquise Piovera
  • Jacques Armand, Marquis de La Force (died at 3 years old)
  • Catherine, Comtesse de Pille
  • Alexandre
  • Renée Philiberte
  • Anne Philiberte
  • Louis-Joseph, Duc de La Force
  • François Pierre Bertrand, Marquis de La Force
  • Josephine Louise, Comtesse de Béthune
  • Marie, Comtesse de Bram
  • Catherine
  • Louise Josephine, Comtesse de Mesnard 

9. Louis-Joseph Nompar de Caumont and Sophie d'Ossun

The final Duc de La Force (during the Ancien Regime) had close connections to the royal family during the last decade before the revolution. His godparents had been the Comte and Comtesse de Provence (brother and sister-in-law of Louis XVI) and his marriage contract was signed by the king and queen. He served in the army from 1780 and later became a Grandee of Spain.

Sophie was a friend of Marie Antoinette and was given her tabouret in 1788.  The couple had just one child: Adélaïde Olympe.

The couple emigrated during the revolution and the family still holds the title today.

Louis-Joseph Nompar de Caumont
Louis-Joseph

The Duc de Lauzun

1) Antoine Nompar de Caumont and Geneviève Marie de Durfort

Antoine is known particularly for being the love interest of La Grande Mademoiselle whom he may or may not have married in secret. He was known as a bit of a troublemaker - having been imprisoned several times - and he moved to England in 1685 in the hope of gaining favour with James II. He would later return to France where he continued to be out of favour with Louis XIV. When La Grande Mademoiselle died, he married Geneviève.

Geneviève was just 14 years old when she was married to the 63-year old Duc de Lauzun. She was the sister-in-law of the Duc de Saint-Simon. The couple never had any children.  


Antoine had no children, so the title went to husband of his niece and therefore passed on to the House of Gontaut.

Antoine-Nompar-de-Caumont-duc-de-Lauzun par Belle.jpg
Antoine




Interesting facts:
  • Charlotte-Rose de Caumont La Force (granddaughter of the first Duc de La Force) became a renowned novelist who converted to Catholicism 
  • The Ducs de La Force must have been made of sturdy stuff - several died at remarkably high ages
    • Henri died at 96 years old
    • Armand died at 95 years old
    • Jacques died at 93 years old
    • Armand II died at 83 years old
  • Besides La Grande Mademoiselle, the Duc de Lauzun enjoyed the favouritism of the English Queen, Mary of Modena 
  • The father and brother of the first Duc de La Force were killed during the St. Bartholomew's Days Massacre
  • The Paris residence of the family - the Hôtel de La Force - became the notorious La Force prison during the revolution

Titles held by the House:
  • Duc de La Force
  • Duc de Caumont
  • Marquis de La Force
  • Marquis de Boësse
  • Comte de Mussidan

The Wardrobe of Hyacinthe Rigaud

Hyacinthe Rigaud served as Louis XIV's court painter; as such he was not an aristocrat nor was he ennobled by his greatest patron. Yet, he spent considerable time both at court and in private with the most eminent personages of the French court. Therefore, his wardrobe had to reflect a delicate balance: refined enough to pass the scrutiny of Versailles but not grand enough to rival his superiors on the social scale.

Hyacinth Rigaud

Breeches

2 pairs of brown, silk breeches

2 pairs of breeches made of granulated fabric

Dressing gowns

1 green silk dressing gown with embroidery and buttons with golden thread

1 dressing gown (unknown colour) trimmed with a braid and silver-threaded buttons

1 damask dressing gown of various colours - described as "old", so it was probably somewhat shabby

1 dressing gown (unknown colour)

1 grey dressing gown with embroideries and silver buttons

1 satin dressing gown


Great coats / Jackets / Justaucorps

1 red great-coat in the Roquelaure-style (buttoned down the front and reaching to the knees) with golden braids and buttons 

1 jacket with silver buttons and a decorative hem

1 black velvet jacket with embroideries and gold buttons

1 brown silk jacket

1 black coat - again described as "old"

1 coat (unknown colour and material)

Habits / Suits

1 habit of Silesian fabric (unknown colour) trimmed with a braid and golden buttons

1 suit (trousers and jacket) of black fabric 

1 habit consisting of brown breeches, a brown waistcoat trimmed with a braid, a great-coat with gold buttons - all with a black velvet lining 

1 grey habit consisting of a waist-coat and breeches with golden braids and buttons

1 black, velvet suit - another "old" piece of clothing

Shirts / Nightshirts

12 embroidered shirts of Dutch linen and muslin 

8 various shirts with lace

12 nightshirts of plain muslin

Vests

1 olive-green vest with a black, velvet lining, a silver braid and matching silver buttons


Waistcoats

10 waistcoats of English cotton

Miscellaneous 

2 hats made of beaver-fur 

2 sachets or bags of bear-skin

1 bag (unknown material or colour)

3 chestnut-coloured wigs (perruques) - these cannot have been of a very appealling nature since they are also described as old 

1 sword with silver hilt

1 sword with partially silver and partially golden hilt

1 cane

8 dishabille robes in different styles

12 cravats

4 pairs of cuffs with various lace and mesh

20 muslin cravats of which three are embroidered

12 cotton handkerchiefs 


The estimated total sum of this wardrobe was 1218 livres.

Saturday, 31 August 2019

The Jewels of Marie Josèphe

The Saxon Dauphine, Marie Josèphe, never did ascend to the throne of France but she certainly had a jewellery box worthy of a queen. Upon her death in 1747, an inventory was made over her possessions including her sumptuous jewels and precious stones. This provides us with an amazing insight into both the fashions of the time and the artistry of the 18th century.

Considering the sheer worth of this collection it was transferred to the protection of Monsieur Fontanieu, who served as the king's intendant of the royal furniture. A stomacher brooch is an often very elaborate piece of jewellery made to be pinned to the stomacher. The inventory often refers to a so-called "næud" which can be both a knot or a bow; as such it was likely what we would term a brooch that could be attached to a gown.

Billedresultat for marie josephe de saxe
Marie Josèphe

Aigrettes

1 aigrette on which four large pendants could be attached

1 aigrette of brilliants and emeralds with the motif of the Saint-Esprit at the centre and five pendants

1 aigrette of brilliants with three pear-shaped pendants: two consisting of emeralds and one of more brilliants (part of a parure given to her by Louis XV in 1751)

1 aigrette with a large ruby, pear-shaped diamonds and flowers of both diamonds and rubies

Bracelets

1 pair of bracelets consisting of 290 brilliants (diamonds cut in a multifaceted manner - a gift from the king to go with the girandole earrings)

1 bracelet with a portrait of Louis Ferdinand, Dauphin set in a frame of diamonds, and mounted on six rows of pearls

1 bracelet with a portrait of Louis XV, in the same style as the one above

1 pair of bracelets consisting of six rows of pearls 

1 pair of bracelets with diamonds and emeralds set on seven rows of pearls


Brooches / Stomacher Brooches

1 brooch in the shape of two diamond bows (one small intersecting a larger one) with a diamond pendant, also from Saxony

1 brooch shaped as a bouquet of white and yellow diamonds and rubies

1 "knot or bow" meant for a deshabille gown (robe de chamber) of diamonds and emeralds

1 "knot or bow" of diamonds and emeralds in the shape of a clover with a pendant

1 bow of brilliants mounted on a brooch painted pink with a pendant of the same colour

1 large square-cut Spinel ruby flanked by brilliants and smaller rubies


Earrings

1 pair of earrings with encircled bows

1 pair of "loop-shaped" earrings consisting of Saxon diamonds (likely a wedding present)

1 pair of girandole earrings (a gift from Louis XV)

1 pair of earrings with floral motif

1 pair of diamond and emerald earrings with attached pendants

1 pair of earrings of Spinel rubies and brilliants

1 pair of large, round earrings of white brilliants and pink brilliants


Fans 

1 fan of gold with amethysts and diamonds

1 fan of mother-of-pearl, encrusted with brilliants, rubies and emeralds


Necklaces

1 necklace with two large diamond pendants, a bow or a knot and seven pieces encircling the neck (this probably refers to a choker-style necklace)

1 six-row pearl necklace

1 necklace with twenty-three Oriental pearls (originally a gift from "the Sultan" to Louis XV in 1722)

Parures

1 stomacher brooch of diamonds, 2 accompanying diamond pieces (these two could be added to any part of the dress) and 2 matching cuffs (attached to the sleeves)

1 collar with a bow, a pair of girandole earrings of topazes from Saxony and nine loose diamonds (to be attached to the gown or stomacher)


Rings

1 ring with a lozenge-shaped emerald (meaning in the shape of a rhombus) with four brilliants on the ring itself


Shoe Buckles

1 pair of buckles adorned with eight oval diamonds and several smaller diamonds


Miscellaneous 

1 tassel consisting of one large diamond encircled by six smaller diamonds

6 diamond encrusted buttons

1 ribbon and 12-15 diamonds that could be interchanged with different parures

1 unspecified piece of jewellery depicting the Saint Jean Népomucène

1 more unspecified piece of jewellery of the same saint but mounted on small emeralds

1 cross of brilliants

5 tassels of diamonds and emeralds

1 watch and chain with white and blue diamonds in a chequered pattern  



The complete value of this magnificent collection was estimated at no less than 737.762 livres.