The Wardrobe of Hyacinthe Rigaud

Hyacinthe Rigaud served as Louis XIV's court painter; as such he was not an aristocrat nor was he ennobled by his greatest patron. Yet, he spent considerable time both at court and in private with the most eminent personages of the French court. Therefore, his wardrobe had to reflect a delicate balance: refined enough to pass the scrutiny of Versailles but not grand enough to rival his superiors on the social scale.

Hyacinth Rigaud

Breeches

2 pairs of brown, silk breeches

2 pairs of breeches made of granulated fabric

Dressing gowns

1 green silk dressing gown with embroidery and buttons with golden thread

1 dressing gown (unknown colour) trimmed with a braid and silver-threaded buttons

1 damask dressing gown of various colours - described as "old", so it was probably somewhat shabby

1 dressing gown (unknown colour)

1 grey dressing gown with embroideries and silver buttons

1 satin dressing gown

Great coats / Jackets / Justaucorps

1 red great-coat in the Roquelaure-style (buttoned down the front and reaching to the knees) with golden braids and buttons 

1 jacket with silver buttons and a decorative hem

1 black velvet jacket with embroideries and gold buttons

1 brown silk jacket

1 black coat - again described as "old"

1 coat (unknown colour and material)

Habits / Suits

1 habit of Silesian fabric (unknown colour) trimmed with a braid and golden buttons

1 suit (trousers and jacket) of black fabric 

1 habit consisting of brown breeches, a brown waistcoat trimmed with a braid, a great-coat with gold buttons - all with a black velvet lining 

1 grey habit consisting of a waist-coat and breeches with golden braids and buttons

1 black, velvet suit - another "old" piece of clothing

Shirts / Nightshirts

12 embroidered shirts of Dutch linen and muslin 

8 various shirts with lace

12 nightshirts of plain muslin

Vests

1 olive-green vest with a black, velvet lining, a silver braid and matching silver buttons

Waistcoats

10 waistcoats of English cotton

Miscellaneous 

2 hats made of beaver-fur 

2 sachets or bags of bear-skin

1 bag (unknown material or colour)

3 chestnut-coloured wigs (perruques) - these cannot have been of a very appealling nature since they are also described as old 

1 sword with silver hilt

1 sword with partially silver and partially golden hilt

1 cane

8 dishabille robes in different styles

12 cravats

4 pairs of cuffs with various lace and mesh

20 muslin cravats of which three are embroidered

12 cotton handkerchiefs 

The estimated total sum of this wardrobe was 1218 livres.

The Jewels of Marie Josèphe

The Saxon Dauphine, Marie Josèphe, never did ascend to the throne of France but she certainly had a jewellery box worthy of a queen. Upon her death in 1747, an inventory was made over her possessions including her sumptuous jewels and precious stones. This provides us with an amazing insight into both the fashions of the time and the artistry of the 18th century.

Considering the sheer worth of this collection it was transferred to the protection of Monsieur Fontanieu, who served as the king's intendant of the royal furniture. A stomacher brooch is an often very elaborate piece of jewellery made to be pinned to the stomacher. The inventory often refers to a so-called "næud" which can be both a knot or a bow; as such it was likely what we would term a brooch that could be attached to a gown.

Marie Josèphe

Aigrettes

1 aigrette on which four large pendants could be attached

1 aigrette of brilliants and emeralds with the motif of the Saint-Esprit at the centre and five pendants

1 aigrette of brilliants with three pear-shaped pendants: two consisting of emeralds and one of more brilliants (part of a parure given to her by Louis XV in 1751)

1 aigrette with a large ruby, pear-shaped diamonds and flowers of both diamonds and rubies

Bracelets

1 pair of bracelets consisting of 290 brilliants (diamonds cut in a multifaceted manner - a gift from the king to go with the girandole earrings)

1 bracelet with a portrait of Louis Ferdinand, Dauphin set in a frame of diamonds, and mounted on six rows of pearls

1 bracelet with a portrait of Louis XV, in the same style as the one above

1 pair of bracelets consisting of six rows of pearls 

1 pair of bracelets with diamonds and emeralds set on seven rows of pearls

Brooches / Stomacher Brooches

1 brooch in the shape of two diamond bows (one small intersecting a larger one) with a diamond pendant, also from Saxony

1 brooch shaped as a bouquet of white and yellow diamonds and rubies

1 "knot or bow" meant for a deshabille gown (robe de chamber) of diamonds and emeralds

1 "knot or bow" of diamonds and emeralds in the shape of a clover with a pendant

1 bow of brilliants mounted on a brooch painted pink with a pendant of the same colour

1 large square-cut Spinel ruby flanked by brilliants and smaller rubies

Earrings

1 pair of earrings with encircled bows

1 pair of "loop-shaped" earrings consisting of Saxon diamonds (likely a wedding present)

1 pair of girandole earrings (a gift from Louis XV)

1 pair of earrings with floral motif

1 pair of diamond and emerald earrings with attached pendants

1 pair of earrings of Spinel rubies and brilliants

1 pair of large, round earrings of white brilliants and pink brilliants

Fans 

1 fan of gold with amethysts and diamonds

1 fan of mother-of-pearl, encrusted with brilliants, rubies and emeralds

Necklaces

1 necklace with two large diamond pendants, a bow or a knot and seven pieces encircling the neck (this probably refers to a choker-style necklace)

1 six-row pearl necklace

1 necklace with twenty-three Oriental pearls (originally a gift from "the Sultan" to Louis XV in 1722)

Parures

1 stomacher brooch of diamonds, 2 accompanying diamond pieces (these two could be added to any part of the dress) and 2 matching cuffs (attached to the sleeves)

1 collar with a bow, a pair of girandole earrings of topazes from Saxony and nine loose diamonds (to be attached to the gown or stomacher)

Rings

1 ring with a lozenge-shaped emerald (meaning in the shape of a rhombus) with four brilliants on the ring itself

Shoe Buckles

1 pair of buckles adorned with eight oval diamonds and several smaller diamonds

Miscellaneous 

1 tassel consisting of one large diamond encircled by six smaller diamonds

6 diamond encrusted buttons

1 ribbon and 12-15 diamonds that could be interchanged with different parures

1 unspecified piece of jewellery depicting the Saint Jean Népomucène

1 more unspecified piece of jewellery of the same saint but mounted on small emeralds

1 cross of brilliants

5 tassels of diamonds and emeralds

1 watch and chain with white and blue diamonds in a chequered pattern  

The complete value of this magnificent collection was estimated at no less than 737.762 livres.