Lost Wardrobes: Louis XIV

Louis XIV was a man who understood the concept of "dress to impress" - the Sun King used his elaborate wardrobe to underline his supreme power and status. Not only his private gloire was expressed in this manner; favoured courtiers, too, were easily recognizable through their clothing. From their high red-heeled shoes to their blue justacorps indicated that the wearer was in the king's good graces.

During his reign, the colours in fashion were far darker than the pastel tones usually associated with Versailles: deep red, royal blue, black, dark green etc. All were typically in lush fabrics such as velvets or brocade with a great attention to lace. Particularly a man's cravat and the visible sleeves of his undershirt was used as a marker for his personal hygiene.

The intricate embroideries and the
plumed hat gives a good idea of the
king's style

Most of the information passed down to us from contemporaries refers to the more elaborate of the king's outfits. One such inform us that on 6 April 1665, the king wore a flame-coloured hat alongside a coat and waistcoat so heavily embroidered that one could not distinguish the fabric underneath. On another occasion, the king wore a suit of black velvet with jacquard-design and the Saint-Esprit Order. This was accessorised with a cane and a hat adorned with a rose of diamonds.

As a part of his wedding celebrations, he was reported to have worn clothing of golden brocade with black laces and diamonds. When his new wife, Marie Thérèse made her public entry, the young king wore a coat embroidered with both pearls and diamonds and trimmed with lace and silver ribbons. The master of the wardrobe estimated that the king's clothing for his marriage and the subsequent celebrations had cost 90.000 livres.

Notice the gold brocade fabric visible at the
sleeves

Receptions of foreign ambassadors - primarily the non-europeans once - were spectacular. Especially the receptions of the representatives of Asian royalty caused the French court to pull out their finest clothing. When he received the envoys from Siam in 1686 he wore a golden suit of silk studded with diamonds - allegedly these were worth 2.000.000 livres. During his last grand ambassadorial reception - this time for the Persian ambassador - his black velvet suit was embroidered with gold and had diamonds worth a staggering 12.000.000 livres! The Duc de Saint-Simon noted that the weight of the precious stones had an unfortunate impact on the king's otherwise regal bearing - he seemed to be bending under their weight and had to change before dinner.

Generally, the king appear to have preferred darker colours - particularly black - towards the end of his life. These tones set off the brilliant diamonds interwoven in the fabric and created a magnificent effect. 

During a ball at Fontainebleau in 1677, the Mercure Galant reported that twelve new suits had been ordered for the king by his master of the wardrobe. One such was made of gold lamé which had been embroidered with both gold and silver. His accompanying sword was encrusted with diamonds worth 150.000 livres - allegedly. 

For the wedding of the Duc de Bourgogne and Marie Adélaide of Savoy in 1697, the king wore another suit of cloth of gold with additional gold embroidery at the seams. Generally, the suit of gold appears to have been a favourite of the king's when it came to more solemn occasions. At his own wedding, Louis XIV had also worn such a suit.

Even in mourning, the king's clothing represented his rank. He alone was entitled to wear violet in honour of recently deceased monarchs. Consequently, when his wife died he donned a completely violet suit.

The tendency to only report the most elaborate of the king's attires gives an impression of a monarch who was always sumptuously dressed. This was not the case, however. On an everyday basis, the king was noted to wear quite simple clothing - of course of the best quality, but not necessarily overly decorated. Louis took this a step further when he went on campaign with his army. One of the simpler outfits worn by the king was noted by an English reverend visiting in 1714. He saw the French king wearing a camlet suit trimmed with golden lace and a white feather in his hat. 

On such everyday occasions, the king very rarely wore jewels. The only ones he would wear were the typical diamond-encrusted buckles. Particularly following the death of Mademoiselle de Fontanges, the Sun King took to wearing darkly coloured coats (especially brown and black). However, his waistcoats were typically very richly embroidered and could be of greens, blues or reds. 

Another slight reference to the king's clothing is given when Madame de Montespan was in favour. At this time, the reigning favourite had a coat made of the same fabric which had been used for the king's suit - an azure blue fabric. This was worn for church. As a younger man, the king had had a penchant for wearing plumed hats - his then-fiancée exclaimed that she had fallen in love with him through a portrait of him wearing just such a hat.

Louis XIV

Several of the contemporary engravings depicts the king wearing different suits. One - probably from the late 1670's-early 1680's - shows the king in a blue coat with plenty of golden embroidery. His stockings and the up-turned sleeves clearly show a purple shade - also embroidered in gold. The whole ensemble was covered with a long, red sash with golden details.

Another show an older king wearing what could very well be a scarlet velvet coat with blue lining and golden embroideries. The waistcoat was white and matched the coat in the lavishness of the embroidery. A black hat was trimmed with white feathers and the king wore the Cordon Bleu.

One stable in the king's wardrobe was the cravat. In most of his portraits - even those in which he is wearing armour - a delicate lace cravat shine through in its whiteness. In an effort to promote the national production of lace, he only wore those produced within France. Prior to that, the finest lace was bought in the Netherlands, Belgium or Italy - it was largely thanks to Cardinal Mazarin that French lace-making came into being.