The Colour Palette of Fashion: Orange

Unlike red natural sources for a pure orange dye was rare in Europe. Generally, such sources as Campeche and pernambuco wood had to be imported from the Americas which caused them to be very expensive. A rule of thumb was that natural dyes that could produce either red or yellow could also be used to produce orange. Two instances of this can be found in Godfrey Smiths "The Laboratory..." from 1740. In this book, he provides the reader with two recipes for dyeing silk orange - both requires alum and so-called Orléans yellow.

Robe à l'Anglaise 1745, Robe à la Française 1750's,
Robe à la Française 1750-90 and unknown date

The colour orange was used in a more political sense too. For instance, Louis XIV is said to have banned wearing the colour orange in 1672 as France was then at war with the Prince of Orange, the future William III of England. The immediate consequence was that orange clothing was quickly dyed another colour. Luckily for fans of the colour, the ban was not permanent and orange was once again seen on the fashion scene in the 18th century.

Robe à la Française 1770's, robe à la Française
1735-40, robe à la Française 1740's and open
robe 1750-80

Orange does not appear to have ever reached great popularity in France. Rather, it is far more common to see surviving pieces with orange used as a complimentary colour rather than the primary one. Ironically, the use of orange blossoms were very popular both as perfume and embroidered on silks.

There is definitely a reason for the absence of orange in the often-changing fashions of the late 18th century. Marie Antoinette was said to abhor the colour and is alleged to have declared - whether true or not - that she would not receive anyone who wore the colour. If this is even remotely true, then it is not a big surprise that the colour was not seen much at court at that time.

Suits from 1750's, 1765, 1775-90 and 1760's
respectively

Due to rather limited use of orange in fashion, there are only a few references to orange clothing in connection with Versailles. Yet, we know that on the bedding ceremony of the Duc and Duchesse de Bourgogne, the dressing gown handed to the young groom by Louis XIV was made of orange silk. This alone clearly shows that the king's ban on the colour had already abated by this period. 

In 1786, the Prince of Wales wore a suit of orange serge for his father's birthday; his suit was heavily adorned with silver tissue as well as diamond and sapphire studs. 

Unknown lady, Javier de Bourbon, Marie Barbara
Eleonore of Schaumburg-Lippe and Xavier of Saxony