The Colour Palette of Fashion: Yellow

China was one of the larger influence of yellow clothing in the 18th century. So-called "Nankeen"-yellow - originating in Nanjing - became fashionable; it was a paler version of yellow. During the 18th century, the trading between China and Europe became more common which inevitably led to an increased influence of Chinese cultural views in Europe. In fashion, the colour yellow became associated with wealth and prosperity - thus perfect for the aristocracy. As for the Chinese, they had long considered yellow to be an indicator of glory, wisdom and wealth.

From the left: 1) possibly a gown for a young girl, unknown origin,
2) a plain robe à la Française, 3) a robe à la Française, 1760's, UK

The colour yellow could be achieved from a variety of natural sources. The expensive - and imported - silks from China were usually dyed with saffron. Considering that saffron remains the most expensive spice in the world, it is not hard to imagine how high the prices could get for quality silk. The connection was China was not limited to imported goods. From the mid-18th century, most European courts (and Versailles, too) became fascinated with Asia where the colour yellow was often associated with royalty.

1) Robe à la Française 1760-79, British or French, 2) Robe à la Française, 1760
3) Robe volante, 1730's

On a more domestic level, weld was widely used and had been since the Bronze Age. This could come in handy for those courtiers who wanted to imitate the more expensive colourings but lacked the funds for it. Tumeric were also a good, natural source.

1) Another gown for a child, 1775-85, British
2) Robe à la Polonaise, 1770's
3) Robe à la Française, 1760, British

A new source of yellow dye became more available in the 18th century, as ships brought back new materials from the Americas and French colonies. Amongst the new sources were fustic and "quercitron" - the inner bark of a specific type of oak (called Eastern Black Oak) growing in North America. However, fustic had the unfortunate tendency to fade, especially on cotton.

1) Robe à la Française, 1750-75, 2) Robe à la Française, 1750's
3) Robe à la Française, 1760's

Different shades of yellow had their own time in the sun. Around 1735, pale yellow was considered very fashionable; a trend that would later be revisited when pastels took over from a more vibrant colour-scheme. Diana Reid Haig mentions that Marie Antoinette and her milliner, Rose Bertin, used lemon yellow which the author refers to as an "unusual hue" - it can therefore be deduced that this particular shade of yellow was not in fashion in the mid-1770's.

The favour of pale yellow is quite unusual since at this point in time stronger hues were usually preferred. An observer at the court of England in 1744, noted a lady wearing a gown and petticoat both in yellow which was "very much the mode in England at present".

1) Waistcoat, 1730's, French, 2) Coat, 1750-70, possibly British,
3) Full suit, 1750-80, French

1) Banyan, 1780, British, 2) A full suit, 1785, Spanish
3) Waistcoat, 1750's, French

Naturally, the colour found its way into the very furniture of the court. When the sickly dauphin, Louis Joseph (son of Louis XVI), was sent to Meudon to recover his health, it was noted that this tutor, the Duc d'Harcourt was given a new bed of yellow damask. In a similar vein, wallpapers and various pieces of furniture were adorned with the sunny colour. For instance, Madame du Barry's antechamber was painted in a mixture of lilac and yellow.

1) Waistcoat, 1730's, 2) Full suit, 1770's, Italian
3) Waistcoat, 1750's

However, yellow had been fashionable earlier, too. From the letters of Madame, we know that the Duchesse de Foix wore a yellow gown with matching yellow ribbons in her hair for a ball in 1720. Even earlier, the English Princess Louisa Maria Stuart (in France with her exiled family) wore a set of yellow velvet for the New Year's celebrations of 1708.

Yellow was one of those colours that survived throughout the 18th century due to its innumerable shades. Everything from the palest yellow, to primrose to a deep saffron yellow could be found in the milliners' shops. New shades of yellow meant new - and often ridiculous - names: "dying ape", "poisoned ape" (one can only wonder what the apes did to deserve such a fate), "Merry Widow", "unhappy friend" - even "sick Spaniard"!

1) A hunting coat - or Caraco - for a woman, 1720-40,
2) Shoes, French, 3) Corset, French, 4) Embroidered
cap, French

Luckily for those who delighted in the sunny shade, there were several types of gemstones that perfectly fit their yellow garb. Anne of Austria, for one, owned a necklace of pearls and yellow diamonds. Likewise, the Princesse de Lamballe received (amongst many others) a pair of bracelets adorned with yellow diamonds.

One of the more popular types of using yellow in clothing was embroidering yellow silk with colourful flowers. The Parisians appear to have been particularly creative in this regard. Elisabeth Farnese, queen of Spain, wrote to her friend, the Duchesse de Saint-Pierre in which she spoke of a beautiful silk from Paris which she had recently ordered. It was the colour of straw and had small, embroidered flowers.

Madame Thélusson, Unknown lady (1720-40),
Lady Monoux

Hortense Mancini, Unknown lady, Johanna Warner

When Madame de Pompadour began establishing herself at Versailles, she chose yellow as the colour of her livery, for the time being at least. Meanwhile, the House of Bourbon-Conti had long had yellow as their livery.  Towards the last years of the French royal family, yellow was not in good standing with the French people. Yellow and black happened to be the colours of the Habsburg Empire and as their (then) hated queen Marie Antoinette was Austrian, yellow became associated with the counterrevolution. 

Francisco Cabarrús and an unknown,
Italian man