Marie Leszczynska's Household of 1726

The Queen was served by twelve dames du palais besides a Superintendant, a dame d'atour and dames d'honneurs. The dames du palais had an internal hierarchy; those who were married to a peer of France or a Grandee of Spain ranked higher than those who did not. The Superintendant - as the name suggests - had the overall responsibility of the Queen's household. Consequently, she would have a great deal of influence on the Queen's daily life. The dame d'atours was responsible for the royal wardrobe and the expenses connected with it.

When Marie Leszczynska married Louis XV she was given a household befitting her new title. This is how the Queen's immediate household looked as of 1726 - each woman's family ties and age is listed:

Superintendant:

Marie-Anne de Bourbon, Mademoiselle de Clermont: grand-daughter of Louis XIV and Madame de Montespan through the Prince de Condé, (29 years old)

Dame d'honneur:

Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Duchesse de Boufflers: widow of Louis-Francois, Duc de Boufflers, (39 or 49 years old)

Dame d'atours:

Anne-Marie-Francoise de Sainte-Hermine: widow of Louis, Comte de Mailly and former dame d'atours to Marie Adélaide of Savoy, (59 years old)

Dames du Palais:

• Marie-Isabelle-Gabrielle de Rohan, Princesse de Rohan: Wife of Marie-Joseph d'Hostun, Duc   de Tallard, (27 years old)

• Jeanne-Angélique Rocque de Varangeville: Wife of Claude-Louis-Victor, Duc de Villars. The next year she would resign in favour of her daughter-in-law

• Julie-Christine Gorge d'Antraigues, Duchesse de Béthune: Daughter of one of the king's secretaries and wife to Paul-Francois de Béthune, (unknown birth-year)

• Henriette de Duras, Comtesse d'Egmont: Great-niece to Madame de Ventadour and wife to Procope-Charles Pignatelli, (30 years old)

• Marie Francoise de Rochechouart, Princesse de Chalais: Wife to Louis-Jean-Charles de Talleyrand, Prince de Chalais and Grandee of Spain. She had previously been married to Michel Chamillard, Marquis de Cany (41 years old)

• Francoise Gilette de Montmorency-Luxembourg, Marquise de Gondrin and Duchesse d'Epernon: Wife to Louis Pardaillan de Gondrin, (22 years old)

• Agnes Berthelot de Pléneuf, Marquise de Prie: Wife to Louis, Marquis de Prie who was godfather to Louis XV, (28 years old)

• Marie-Marguerite d'Allègre, Comtesse de Rupelmonde: She had previously been a dame d'atours to Marie Adélaide of Savoy and wife to Maximilien-Philippe Joseph de Boulogne de Licques, (38 years old)

• Marie Adelaide de Gramont, Marquise de Gontaut: Wife to Francois-Armand de Gontaut, (26 years old)

• Armande-Félicite de La Porte de La Meilleraye, Marquise de Nesle: Wife to Louis de Mailly and mother to the infamous Mailly-sisters who were mistresses to Louis XV, (35 years old)

• Comtesse de Mérode: Wife to Alexandre-Maximilien de Gànd de Mérode, (unknown birth-year)

• Edme-Charlotte de Brenne, Marquise de Matignon: Wife to Thomas-Auguste de Gouyon. She would later resign in favour of her daughter, (unknown birth-year)

So, what were this group of women like?

First of all, a lot of the Queen's women owed their position to their relationship to the then-reigning Prime Minister, the Duc de Bourbon. The Superintendent - for example - was his sister. The Comtesse d'Egmont was a part of his inner circle as was the Princesse de Chalais. Both were from pro-Spanish families which must have caused some tension considering that Marie Leszczynska had replaced the Spanish Maria Anna Victoria as Louis XV's bride.

Of course, the one most intimately connected with the Prime Minister was his mistress, the Marquise de Prie. She tried in vain to gain the title of Duchesse.

While the Duchesse de Boufflers was widely recognized as a virtuous and wise lady, others had a very different reputation. Actually, several of the dames du palais were linked to rather more scandalous behaviour. For instance, the Marquise de Nesle was infamous for her affairs one of which she had with Louis-Henri, Prince de Condé. It was even rumoured that her daughter, Marie-Anne, was the result of this liaison. Another one of her famous affairs was with the Duc de Richelieu.

It can only be imagined that Marie Leszczynska had some difficulties coming to terms with the more lively of her ladies. After all, the Queen herself was a devout woman who appreciated traditional values.

Luckily for the new Queen, there were those who preferred a more virtuous style of living. Mademoiselle de Clermont had previously been employed in the household of her cousin, the Duchesse de Berry, but had resigned due to the Duchesse's extremely scandalous behaviour. She remained Superintendent until her death in 1741 so it is quite likely that she developed a good relationship with Marie Leszszynska.

At this early stage the Queen had still to learn the dynamics of the court. She could not have known of the intrigues and alliances of those closest to her.

House of La Rochefoucauld

The House of La Rochefoucauld belonged to the oldest ranks of nobility in France; the family held a patent of nobility since 1019. Until the 15th century the family held the ranks of Lord or Baron de Rochefoucauld. It was Francis I who elevated the barony into a county in April 1528. The holder of the title Comte de Rochefoucauld was then Francois I de Rochefoucauld. His successor, Francois II, was further honoured with the titles of Prince de Marillac and Baron de Verteuil.

Surprisingly, both Francois III and Francois IV were Protestants. The former had married the sister-in-law to the Prince de Condé and was killed in the St. Bartholomew Day's Massacre. The latter was also killed but at Saint-Yrieix by the French Catholic League.

These would be the last Protestant Lords Rochefoucauld. Francois V was raised into Duc de La Rochefoucauld by Louis XIII in 1622; his Catholicism may well have been the reason for the elevation since his predecessors had been denied the title.

The male line died out in 1721; by patent of Louis XV the title was permitted to be carried by Marie-Louise de La Rochefoucauld's male children (she was the daughter of Alexandre I). However, there was a condition. In order for Marie-Louise to obtain the title for her sons she would have to marry one of her Rochefoucauld-relations. She chose Jean Baptiste de La Rochefoucauld de Roye.

The son of Marie-Louise and Jean Baptiste had inherited no less than two ducal titles: Duc de La Rochefoucauld and Duc d'Anville. He would be known as the Duc de La Rochefoucauld-d'Anville. He would meet a grisly end in 1792 when he was assassinated in the massacre of September that year.  His cousin, Francois XII, has gone down in history for his comment to Louis XVI on 12 July 1789. When the King asked if it was a revolt, Francois answered "No, sire, it is a revolution".

The family line is still in existence with the Francois de La Rochefoucauld claiming the unofficial title of the 14th Duc de La Rochefoucauld.

Alliances of the Ducs de La Rochefoucauld:
Francois V - Gabrielle du Plessis-Liancourt
Francois VI - Andrée de Vivonne
Francois VII - Jeanne du Plessis-Liancourt
Francois VIII - Magdaleine Charlotte de le Tellier de Louvois (daughter of Louis XIV's minister)
Alexandre I - Elisabeth-Marie-Louise-Nicole de Caylard de Toiras d'Amboise
Marie-Louise - Jean Baptiste de La Rochefoucauld
Louis Alexandre - Alexandrine de Rohan-Chabot
Francois XIII - Marie-Francoise de Tott

Family members:

Duc de La Rochefoucauld-d'Anville -
son of Marie-Louise and Jean Baptiste

Francois VI - wrote his memoirs of the Fronde

Cardinal de La Rochefoucauld

Alexandrine de Rohan-Chabot,
Duchesse de La Rochefoucauld

Francois XII - who answered Louis XVI

Buste of Félicité Sophie
de Lampion,
Duchesse de
La Rochefoucauld

The Prince de Condé & the Princesse de Monaco

Louis Joseph, Prince de Condé had been married to Charlotte de Rohan since 1753 but their marriage was not one of mutual love. Instead, he began a long-lasting affair with Maria Caterina Brignole, Princesse de Monaco. Their relationship became increasingly serious following Charlotte's death in 1760.

In 1769 the liaison had become so serious that the Princesse had made a home for herself in the Parisian Hotel de Lassay; conveniently, this was an annex of Louis Joseph's residence, the Palais-Bourbon. Unsurprisingly, news quickly spread beyond the borders of France to Maria's husband.

The Prince de Monaco was not pleased with his wife's French escapades. In a jealous fit to keep her with him he closed the borders of Monaco. However, she managed to side-step his maneuver and made it to Le Mans. Here, she sought refuge in a convent. While she was locked up in the nunnery the Prince de Condé attempted - in vain - to persuade the Prince de Monaco to separate himself from his wife.

At court their love-affair was no less cause for scandal. Marie Antoinette had been brought up to disdain mistresses - a consequence of her mother's life-long jealousy of her father's mistresses - and did not look kindly on Maria's position. This did not deter the couple who were reunited in Paris in 1770. Four years later, they planned the construction of the Hotel de Monaco which was to provide her with a permanent home close to her lover.

By the time Maria returned to Paris her marriage was as good as over. In January 1770 she was granted a legal divorce from her husband.

By the outbreak of the revolution the couple was still together. First, they fled into Germany and then made it on to England. Maria found herself a widow following the death of her husband in 1795. The couple was finally able to marry; this ceremony  was performed on 24 October 1798. However, the couple was not free to openly admit to their marriage. In fact, the marriage was kept a secret for 10 whole years before it was finally acknowledged in late December 1808.

Maria spent her vast fortune in a vain attempt at restoring the Bourbon-dynasty to power in France which left her destitute.

The Garters

With most depictions of a delicate garter tied around a young woman's thigh it is hardly surprising that most people associate the garters with female dress. Until around the 16th century, however, it was also used by men in ceremonial dresses.

As this blog focuses on the 17th and 18th century I will restrict myself to the female ones from this period. Garters were ribbons of fabric which were worn either above or below the knee. For the upper classes they were made from expensive materials such as silk. These garters would often be richly decorated with embroideries of ornate patterns or personal mottos. Unlike the male counterpart, ladies' garters were not visible to the naked eye; men had worn them on their hoses while ladies' hid them underneath a full body of skirts.

Pink silk garters with motto

Their main function - other than as a fashion statement - was to hold up the stockings. They could either be fastened with buckles or laces; the latter seems to be a more comfortable choice, though. As most fashions this could have a dark side as well. Some women tightened their garters so tightly that their blood circulation suffered as a result. To avoid any chafing garters were often padded.

One peculiar episode concerning garters involved the Sun King's mistress, Marie-Angélique de Fontagnes. Her signature hairstyle - naturally named after her - came to be when she found her hair disheveled while out hunting and bound it up using her garters.

This photo shows how clasps were used as well as padding

Usually, garters were white but could be extensively decorated. As an example the purchase of the Duchesse d'Orléans from 1737 illustrates this. She bought seven pairs of garters; one was embroidered with green and gold, another with silver. Yet another consisted itself of silver cloth while a fourth pair was embroidered with silver in four colours.
As can be deduced from this order garters were worn on both legs - to keep both stockings up. The rather newer trend of having a single wedding garter is of a more symbolic nature.

Detail of a garter allegedly belonging to Marie Antoinette

Legend has it that Marie Antoinette's remains were identified by the characteristic Habsburg-jaw as well as a monogrammed garter.

As seen in portraits:
Naturally, since the garter was a part of a lady's delicates they were not shown on official portraits. However, thanks to the wonderful art of the 18th century we are left with some beautiful examples nonetheless.

Francois Broucher's "La Toilette" shows a young lady
neatly tying her garter around a silk stocking

This portrait - attributed to Nicholas Lavreince -
also focuses on the garter

Michel Garnier's elegant lady is apparently
not aware of her peeping-tom 

The Buckle

In an age without zippers the stylish way to ensure that a garment did not become undone by a gust of wind was by buttons or buckles. Buckles were used for shoes, breeches, hats and stockings - even the occasional banyan was secured by a buckle. Both men and women used buckles although it was used more generally in men's fashions.

The cheaper - and more affordable - versions were often made from brass or iron which could then be coated with tin to give it a silver-look. For the greater court events gold or silver were preferred; these would often be quite intricately made in themselves and often carried the maker's mark on them. As an indicator of how precious such buckles could be they were stored in jewelry-boxes.

Shoe Buckles
Until 1670 shoes had been tied with ribbon which was tied into large bows. Buckles became more in fashion by this period. The shape of the shoe buckles developed through the ancien regime. During Louis XIV they were largely rectangular but in the 18th century they became smaller and round. Finally, they retook the rectangular shape during Louis XVI by which they were also larger - so large that they covered the foot's length.

Women's shoes, 1740's

At the mid-18th century the fashions for buckles became more splendid. Gemstones and paste were by now frequently used to decorate ornately spun shoe buckles. Although it was far from everyone at court who could afford to adorn their buckles with genuine gemstones some found a way to imitate the style. Coloured glass was often used as a substitute; most of the surviving buckles carry these glass-stones rather than the extravagant gemstones.

Certain gatherings kept their guests first-class by refusing to let "lace-shoed gentlemen" in; only those wearing silver buckles could gain admittance at such parties.

This shoe buckle from 1770 shows how elaborate the
designs could be

From the 1780's onward it became more common amongst men to replace shoe buckles with laces which fitted well with the emerging simpler fashion.

Knee Buckles
Buttons had been the primary method of "binding" breeches to the stockings underneath but buckles gradually became more popular around 1735. The fashionable men would attempt to match their knee buckles with those adorning their shoes. As it became the fashion to wear tight-fitting breeches knee buckles were also used to ensure a close fit.

Knee buckles, 18th century

Unlike the shoe buckles these were small and often oval; the wearer could have three small buckles on each knee. However, the shape depended much on the wearer's taste. In the 1770's both oval and square knee buckles were in fashion.

Hat Buckles
Usually, these were rectangular and made from lighter materials than the brass or iron used otherwise. This was mainly to avoid damaging the delicate fabrics often used for the fashionable hats as well as not weighing down the wearer's head.
Luckily for the fashionable people buckles had more than merely a good look to them; they could just as easily be used to fasten the increasingly elaborate hair accessories. The usage of hat buckles did not really come into style before the 1770's.

Men's shoe buckles, 1775-80

Mourning Buckles
In time of mourning it was considered in extremely poor taste to adorn one-self with ornaments. As such neither gemstones, pearls or paste were worn during mourning periods. Instead, they were bronzed.

As seen in portraits:

The knee buckle can just be seen to the
left

Detail of Louis XIV's shoe buckles

House of Lévis

The family originally descended from the Île-de-France and had been dominant at the court since the 12th century. The family legend claims that they were descended from the Virgin Mary while in fact the family's first documented lord was Philip I, Lord of Lévis. However, his descendants are not known and the family's name comes up again in 1170.

In the 17th century the family had developed into five branches:

The family achieved ducal status with Gilbert III who became a duke and peer in 1589. Since then the family held considerable sway at court where they occupied valuable positions. Especially when Charlotte de La Mothe-Houdancourt - better known as Madame de Ventadour - became the governess of the children of the Duc and Duchesse de Bourgogne the family thrived. She would eventually save the future Louis XV from being purged by the royal doctors which would almost certainly have caused the little boy's death. As a result the King became excessively attached to her.

Madame de Ventadour

The army, too, became a field of choice for the House of Lévis. Several men in the family did well in the army; Francois Gaston de Lévis, Charles-Eugène de Lévis-Charlus and Gaston Pierre de Lévis-Mirepoix became Marèchals de France. Besides, the title of Governor of Limousin was bestowed on the husband of Madame de Ventadour. At court the family had been in the inner circle of the those aristocrats who served the royal family.

Madame de Ventadour had been lady-in-waiting to Marie Thérèse and then to Elizabeth Charlotte, Duchesse d'Orléans. Gaston Pierre de Lévis-Mirepoix was appointed ambassador to Vienna and also received the Orders of Saint-Esprit and Saint-Michel.

Anne Victoire of Hesse-Rotenburg, Princesse de Soubise

Anne Victoire was born on 25 February 1728 as the eldest child of the Hereditary Prince of Hesse-Rotenburg.

She was chosen to become the third wife of Charles de Rohan, Prince de Soubise. The couple were married on 23 December 1745 at the bridegroom's Château des Rohan. At the time of the marriage Anne Victoria was 17 years old while her new husband was 30. In dynastic terms the match was not a bad one. Charles de Rohan held the rank of Prince d'Etranger at court; he had accompanied Louis XV on his military campaign of 1744-48 - during this point he was married to Anne Victoire. Also, he had become a close friend of Louis XV which certainly helped his young wife's social standing at court.

There seem to have been little genuine love in the match. Both parties took lovers outside of their marriage and the couple never had children. Considering that his last two wives had died in childbirth this could be an indicator that the couple were not intimately connected or that they simply never conceived a child.

Anne Victoire became the centre of a court scandal in 1757 when she was arrested on the order of the king. She was accused of stealing jewels worth 900.000 livres; these she allegedly planned to use to pay for an elopement she had planned with her lover, Monsieur de Laval-Montmorency. The elopement had almost been succesful since she had made it to Tournai where she was eventually caught.

This was the final straw for the marriage. The couple was officially separated - in itself a scandal - and she was sent back to her parents in disgrace. Her parents were given a pension of 24.000 livres for her keep. From this point she lived in Ecternacht and little is therefor known about her life. It is known, though, that she never remarried. The fate of her previous marriage had made her an outcast on the marriage market. Not only was the scandal enough to scare away potential suitors but she was almost 30 years old when she was separated. At the time this was considered to be middle age for a woman since women "lost their bloom" at a remarkably early point.

However, she moved back to Paris at some point in her later years. Here she died on 1 July 1792 - five years exactly after her estranged husband. It would seem that she avoided the wrath of the revolutionaries which could be due to the fact that she had not been connected to the French aristocracy for a long time.